Sacrifice on Mount Everest
Before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay successfully conquered Mount Everest on May 24, 1953 that was climbing through the southern route from Nepal.
29 years earlier, in 1924, George Mallory, a British climber who tried to conquer Mount Everest from the northern route (through Tibet) viewed through binoculars from Everest Base Camp Tibet almost reached the peak when suddenly the fog cloud enveloped him.
He was not found after that until 75 years later when climbers from China reported a body was found in good condition near the summit of Everest. Until now, no one knows whether he fell after reaching the summit on the way down before reaching the peak.
At high altitudes, as well as risk of experiencing trauma due to a fall, climbers are also exposed to the risk of altitude sickness.
Belong to the altitude sickness is Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) or mountain drunk and destitute which if continued will cause watery brain (High Altitude Cerebral Edema, HACE) or pneumonia (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema, HAPE), which can be fatal .
In addition to altitude sickness, Everest climbers are also exposed to the risk of snow blindness (Snowblind), retinal hemorrhage (High Altitude retinal Hemorrhage), symptoms of cold (hypothermia), frozen bites (frostbite) and cough cold (Khumbu Cough), a dry cough without phlegm due inflammation of the suction air cool and dry.
High-altitude climbing areas usually no medical clinic services, especially hospitals. In addition, no ambulances can be expected in the event of an emergency.
Rescue helicopter service can not be predicted accurately because depending on the weather and altitude.
For Everest climbers on the Nepal, there are clinics in operation during climbing season. There is a doctor on duty at the clinic voluntarily Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) to charge quite expensive every time consultation. In the Tibetan side was no clinic.
Some teams are lucky if there is a doctor climber expedition climbers participated as support.
However the doctor on duty should have knowledge in emergency treatment involving related cases altitude sickness.
They must undergo their own training as vulnerable to the symptoms of AMS.
In addition, medical devices that can be carried very limited. The doctor can not expect perfect medical supplies or equipment.
Various modifications and creativity should be used when carrying out their duties under limited circumstances and deprivation at high altitudes.
How HACE and HAPE occur? HACE occurs when the situation lack of oxygen, the body reacts with the blood vessels in the brain dilate.
This causes increased pressure in the blood vessels because more blood flow.
Lack of oxygen also causes the blood vessels become porous due to the production of chemicals in the body such as nitric oxide and bradykinin.
This causes fluid from the blood vessels into the brain tissue and cause watery past disrupt brain function.
HAPE occurs because in lack of oxygen, the blood vessels in the lungs constrict.
This contraction causes the pressure in the blood vessels of the lungs increases. Liquid will go forth to meet the lung as a result of the effects porous low oxygen levels. Breathing will be disturbed and if the water-filled lungs, climbers may die.
Heart Attack and Stroke Risk at high altitude, as well as the lack of oxygen (hypoxia), physiological responses, including the production of hormones 'erythropoeitin' causing increase in the number and concentration of red blood cells.
This causes the risk of having a heart attack or stroke for those with the disease to be high.
Those who are at risk for heart disease and stroke should be aware of the risks involved in making the climb.
Emergency In mount to ensure a safety net during the climb. HRA provides evacuation assistance.
Insurance should be taken as the cost of very high evacuation. Practice of telemedicine where doctors from base camp provides instruction through the use of drugs or satellite phone walkie talkie is part of this safety net.
Climbers should also have a basic knowledge of the symptoms of altitude sickness. Label use of medications with symptoms and usage guidelines can also help climbers because sometimes communication between doctors and climbers can be cut off completely.
When this happens, the climbers themselves can take medicines on the label on the medicine.
Conclusion climbers during the ascent should understand the risks and take all necessary measures to prevent untoward incidents.
Knowledge of altitude sickness is very important for climbers because it will prevent harm. Medical support and safety nets should be considered in every expedition.
